If there were some sort of tool that could measure the amount of “buzz” radiating from Austin restaurants, Garrido’s would surely emit a big, bright, fiery red pulse on a regular basis—particularly on the weekends. After all, who wouldn’t like this sophisticated Spanish-style locale complete with an inviting bar and a shady patio overlooking Shoal Creek? (Ok so the creek is dry, but that’s not the restaurant’s fault.) And the food? Let’s just say this “upscale” taqueria has quickly squeezed its way into becoming one my Top 10 Austin restaurants and it’s not because of all the beautiful people that funnel through the door… and believe me, there are a lot of them.
Garrido’s has won me over because it is real. It may claim to be an “upscale” taqueria, but the upscale part applies more to the quality of ingredients rather than pretentious presentation or inflated prices. The food is simple, but the flavors are layered and balanced—a goal Chef/Owner David Garrido was intent on achieving.
“When we were developing the menu, we wanted everything to be fresh and simply made,” says Garrido. “Every component has its own spice and character. It’s not completely Mexican, Oaxacan, Tex-Mex, or Spanish, but there are hints of all of these regional flavors.”
Long-time Austinites may remember David Garrido as the acclaimed chef of Jeffrey’s. (He was at the helm for 15 years before Alma Alcocer-Thomas took over for a few years and moved on to Fonda San Miguel. Today, Chef Deegan McClung runs the kitchen at the famed Austin landmark.) Garrido’s flare for sophisticated Continental cuisine with Southwestern accents is easily recognizable on his new menu. Yes, this is a taqueria, but you won’t find your average ground beef or shredded chicken tacos here. Instead mahi mahi, Gulf crab, lamb, and sometimes lobster are a few of the showstoppers on the menu.
“We’re not a typical Tex-Mex place. It’s about the quality of ingredients and flavors that bring satisfaction with every plate,” says Garrido. “The flavors are what matter, they give a sensation of enrichment when you’re dining, as opposed to getting full on large amounts of food.”
But despite the upscale ingredients, Garrido’s doesn’t pretend to be something that it’s not. The place is sleek and sexy and the food is great. It has all the perks this burgeoning food city has grown up with in the past few years, yet it still has a relaxed, authentically Austin feel. So much so that it’s not unusual to see a healthy mix of young, hip power couples, families with young children, or long-time Austinites looking for great food from one of their favorite Austin chefs.
Service
I’ve been to Garrido’s quite a few times in its short two-month existence. The soft opening was really a test run for staff to get their bearings. Since then, the service is still a tad slow, but has gotten progressively better. Since it’s only in its second month, I’m willing to cut them some slack to get their timing right.
Favorites
Remember the crisply fried oysters on yucca chips with a perky habanero aioli that once graced the menu at Jeffrey’s? You can find them here, only with a few subtle differences. The roasted pork quesadilla is a certain crowd-pleasing appetizer with asadero cheese and a piquant habanero salsa.
And even though you have to pay for chips and salsa, the extra crispy homemade chips, and the smoky salsa puree are worth the paltry $1.50. (NOTE: I’m a chips-and-salsa-aholic myself, but those that complain about paying for chips need to get over it. You shouldn’t be stuffing your mouth with baskets of chips before a meal anyway, and if uber Tex-Mex chain Chipotle can get away with charging for chips, Garrido’s certainly can too.)
Favorite tacos… hmmm. This one’s tough. The skirt steak with radish and lime is good and I’m always a fan of pork carnitas. The mahi mahi has all the health perks of eating a fish taco, with just a little bit of the crispy bacon guilt. (Anyone who thinks bacon is a sin probably isn’t someone I’d likely be having margaritas and tacos with anyway.) My favorite is probably the coffee-marinated ribeye taco. This taco’s got some kick with a horseradish aioli that seems to bite right back after the first little nibble—just the way I like it.
Dessert
I’m rarely a dessert person, but if you’re like me and like only a hint of sweet after a meal rather than the full-tilt jolt of chocolate decadence, then you should try the pastel de calabaza. It’s essentially a very light zucchini cake, a Garrido family recipe that delivers with just a touch of sweetness and a refreshing balanced flavor.
Cocktails
As for specialty cocktails, the list obviously includes a house margarita and a Mexican martini, both of which are better than your average Tex-Mex lime and tequila cocktail. They also have a refreshing kiwi-cucumber martini. But the kid in me is hooked on the raspberry mojito. This mint-berry blast takes me back to teenage road trips with Sonic tater-tots and Route 44 Cherry Limeades… Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it.
Bottom line, there’s a reason this place draws a steady crowd. Word to the wise, come often and try it all.
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